1984 GREECE+TURKEY+EGYPT+ISRAEL+UK+HK

1984-01-03 January 3rd was a hot Tuesday. We left Sydney (35 degrees) flying Qantas to Athens (8 degrees) via steamy Bangkok A long flight especially with our 9 year old daughter,  in tow. Initially not keen on long distance travel, she eventually got used to the idea.

We stayed at the conveniently central Titania Hotel -handy to the Akropolis, Agora and the Pantheon, Stoa of Attilus and the Theseum, all the time managing a junior dental emergency requiring the services of a dentist. Lots of good food nearby to keep us going

 

 Next day a train to Piraeus and an overnight  ferry to spectacular Rhodos. On arrival in the port, Mrs Pappadopoulous' pension fitted the bill just fine, especially as she had rellos in Melbourne of all places! Mediaeval city and the restored Palace of the Knights took our fancy as did our guidebook translations. Travelled to Lindos and the Crusader ruins and the majestic local akroplolis set on a clifftop overlooking the sea. Rhodos locals weren't aware of a ferry to nearby Marmaris in Turkey but on extensive enquiries, we did find a shop selling tickets in a back street!  

 

 

1984-01-10 Tuesday We sailed the very next day on board a flimsy craft which dimantled its ruddder on the final approach to the wharf at Marmaris. . The Captain ( a lookalike of Ghengis Khan -but quite jovial when plied with copious amounts of Johnny Walker) was in charge for the 4 hour journey in the rain. The Captain was met with a rousing welcome by the local kids as he arrived...We chose the "Hotel Pinar" for our local abode and left Marmaris the next morning for our 4 and a half hour bus ride to Selcuk to stay at the Pension Sentop. Nearby was the extensive ruins of the basilica of  St John as well as the popular "Hitit Restaurant" under the management of an apparent sea Captain of sorts. Food was good. The ruins of Ephesus were next up, requiring 3 hours of poring over the impressive remains. Daughter Jacqui found much to interest her in the abandoned ruins with poky rooms everywhere and side roads leading nowhere. Not much left of the Temple of Diana -apparently an "Ancient Wonder of the World" so they say. No ferries to Samos for a few days so we returned whence we came... to Marmaris. Storms, thunder lightning and high winds!

 

 

1984-01-13 Saturday: Sailed for Rhodos and the Hotel Hermes (very civilized -even had continuous hot water!) Drove to Kalymnos with our new-found Aussie friends, Don and Kathy. Sunday -milder weather. We took a flight to Athens to have souvlaki in our now favourite restaurant then caught a bus to beautiful Nafplion and the convenient Hotel Othon (Otto).To hell with it - we lashed out on an expensive dinner.

Next day we had our rental car... a 547cc Daihatsu Cuore which took us to see Mycenae and then Epidavros -both seiously impressive even in the rain. . A difficult road to Sparta and the basic Hotel Anessis. Room heating left us in no doubt about the true meaning of the word "spartan" The breakfast was an adventure -it consisted of tripe soup which is a local speciality we had not expected. When we abandoned it mid way the proprietor expressed his indignation at such an insult (nevertheless unintended by us at the time) and proceeded to use what I can only presume to be indelicate language.   We later found omelette and cold chips available elsewhere

 . We drove up to the abandoned city of Mystra -such a spectacular place surrounded by snow-topped mountains. Spent hours walking the interesing streets and melancholy buildings.We later returned to friendly Nafplion to drop off the car. Counted 52 roadside monuments to honour those who had perished on this winding mountain road going back to Tripolis. That night we dined royally on excellent hamburgers and strawberry milkshakes. This is a spectacular little city with great views to the lake, the Bourzi and the Palimedes fortress. Have never forgotten them to this day!. .Athens again with hours spent in the National Archaeological  Museum with the Mycenae Room unfortunately closed.

1984-01-18 Wednesday: Caught the Olympic flight to Cairo, Egypt.. An interesting time on board as all the other passengers seemed to be Egyptians returning from working in Libya. The Greek staff did not appear pleased with their onboard antics, especially as the plane came in to land at Cairo and the passengers began to disembark at the moment of touchdown. Later the crew opened the doors for them. A local, Ali, showed us the way to our hotel, the historic Grand Hotel (especially the historic tablecloths and the waiter's historic smocks! We later later moved to the cheaper, downmarket, Green Valley Hotel where we had much the same quality of outcome but for so much less cash outlay)

 

 

We shouted friendly Ali a beer for his help... Wow, alcohol is expensive in this country! 
Evenings we ate at the Nile Hilton where they offered quite delicious Italian food . Everyone on the street was quite friendly and perfume oil was the big shopping sensation around town.
Our new friend Ali decided to show us around Islamic Cairo so we went to the Al Muyaid Mosque, Chris ended up at a Belly Dancing floor show at the Atlas Hotel that night, which was quite different to what was expected. Locals prefer the heavier woman obviously and the trim girl who had opened the show was met with lacklustre applause. Chris thought this was rather unsporting considering the work she had put in.. Hmmmm. "Little Egypt", who came out next was obviously the real star!!! She had nice teeth and what I took to be a weight problem. The many locals attending the show didn't agree and showered her with raucous applause and heaps of paper money.
Saturday found us at the fabulous Cairo Museum where we spent about 4 hours until closing time. On to the Exelsior for meatballs, chips and potatos and then coffee at Zeina's.

1984-01-22 Sunday and a taxi ride to Giza and Sakkara for their obvious attractions.  Also took in the stepped pyramid of Zoser, the (very weird) Serapeum and the tombs of Ti. Jac and Bev rode camels and we shared tea with the camel men. They helped us get back to Sakkara (on their comfortable camels) and from there we were able to take a local bus back to Cairo. We ate that night at the recommended and tasty Restaurant Alfi Bey. Next day back to Giza and the Sphinx. Spent 4 interesting hours there. More Pizza, Lasagne and Spaghetti at the Nile Hilton.

 

Next day at the Qaytbay Mosque and the Sultan Hassan Mosque and for good measure we also "did" the Ibn Tulin Mosque with the Gayer Anderson House. More food at Zeina's near Tahrir Square then over to Ramses Station to catch the Compagnie International des Wagons Lits Overnight Express to Luxor. This was one posh train ride and the local white wine did the trick... we slept like babes.

1984-01-25 Wednesday: arrived Luxor at 7am.  Not much accomodation available so we went "upmarket" at the Ramoza hotel. A carriage ride to Karnak seemed so right in the circumstances and as it was seriously hot by now,  we took a coach and four to the temples of Luxor. Sunset over the Nile followed by a Son et Lumiere based on the temple itself -spectacular - wouldn't have missed it for quids !
Thursday -industrially hot so we hired pushbikes to ride to the west bank and the Valley of the Kings... -tombs of Ramesses VI, Tutankhamen, Horenheb, Amenophis II, Ramses III, Tuthmosis III and finally to the Mortuary temple of Hatshepsut herself. We deserved the nice dinner of chicken, chips, vegetables and rice that we rewarded ourselves with! More bike rides on the west bank to Thebes, the Ramasseum, tombs of the Nobles marred by the mischief of creative local kids (who switch signs and demand money to indicate the correct path). After a small argument waking up the attendant, we feasted on the Valley of the Queens and the temple of Hadinat.. Back to the Ramoza and then aboard Wagons Lits for our return rail journey to Cairo. We spent the night gainfully occupied in the Club Car. This is THE way to travel I can assure you.

1984-01-28 Saturday: Arrived at 0900, walked to Taalat Harb and checked into the Tulip Hotel. Restaurant Roy was uninspiring, so we backtracked to Restaurant Alfi Bey - we were not disappointed.

1984-01-29 Sunday: Our final breakfast at the Nile Hilton and then  the 0600 Egged bus across the Sinai to Israel via Rafah. We had been advised by friends to make this trip as it was only recently possible and could disappear in the blink of an eye.
At the Israeli border the scenery turned green immediately. At Tel Aviv we changed buses to go "up" to Jerusalem arriving at 1800. Mrs Kahana, waiting at the bus station assured us she had just the room for us -and she did! We later dined on delicious meatballs, bean soup and rice. It had been an adventurous trip across a disputed, war weary desert littered with the detritus of war.

 

 1984-01-30 A cold day to walk around the Old City of Jerusalem. Saw  the Citadel (King David's Tower), the Bazaar, Roman and Byzantine remnants everywhere. Hamburgers, Chips and Milkshakes! Next day took us to the Dome of the Rock, Al Aqsa Mosque, Russian Church and the Mount of Olives with its breathtaking views of the city. More to see with the Via Dolorosa from St Stephen's Gate to  know.
We did go to the Berenstein Youth Hostel to hang about though -discovering that we had somehow become "middle aged" while we weren't looking.
Friday we took a bus from Jaffa Gate to Bethlehem (now where have I heard of that place?) a town not far from Jerusalem but with a different atmosphere. The Basilica of the Maternity and concomitant Milk Grotto were the star of the show.The impressive basilica was built by Constantine (repaired by Justinian)on the alleged exact spot where Jesus was born. Children were kissing the ground here. A small well nearby was supposed to contain stars visible only to virgins. I checked it out scientifically and have some very big questions to ask some people.
Back to Jerusalem to the Kidron Valley, Zachariah's Tomb and Absalom's Column. Through the Old City to the Western Wall just at the beginning of Shabbat with its rituals (mostly for men it seems). Everything was shut down from then.

1984-02-04 Saturday. We began our tour starting with a drive to Masada, riding to the top of the pile by cablecar thankfully. An awe inspiring site with spectacular views and a fascinating, event-filled history. We had just seen some TV series on the whole affair which us to imagine what had happened here! The ruined palace of Herod was impressive not only for its antiquity but for the personalities and events that had happened here.

Not too far away was Ein Gedi with its (dead sea scrolls) Cave and the Dead Sea itself to float around in for a picture-taking event. Sulphur pools and a shower rounded out the experience. The archaelogical remains at Jericho together with the abandoned more modern city were a memorable sight. Much has happened here over the years. We returned and had a dinner at the Berenstein Youth Hostel.
Sunday saw us in Solomon's Quarry, The Tourjeman Post (from the battles of 1948 to 1967) and then exploring the Orphel? (notes hard to read at this point)

1984-02-06 Monday Caught the bus to Tel Aviv. Spent several hours at the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora which had beautifully organized and displayed exhibits. Nearby was Old Yafo (Jaffa) where we dined on Libyan Cous Cous and Kebabs by the sea.
Tuesday and raining. We got to see the Dead Sea Scrolls and other historic artifacts from Qumran and Masada at the Israel Museum.

1984-02-08 Wednesday: Nesher Share taxi to Ben Gurion Airport for our British Air 757 flight to London. Five and a half hours -not a totally comfortable flight. At the time we had booked we had expected to fly in a widebody Lockheed TriStar. I was a little disappointed.BA finished off the journey with a bumpy landing at LHR.

1984-02-09 Thursday in London . Sunny, blue sky day! Back to Crumpets and Tea at a friend's garden flat near Hampstead Heath (near George Orwell's lonely garret/flat/room). After 10 years away, London had changed a bit. So what do you show a 9 year old kid? How about Baker Street, Madame Tussaud's and the Planetarium...Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Square and the Prince Edward Theatre to see "Evita" (or was that "don't cry for me Marge and Tina?)

Friday we went to Covent Garden and of course the Transport Museum. Walked the Embankment in the mist and finally Trafalgar Square and an excellent Indian meal.

 

Saturday: Portobello Road was in full swing and even played with two Cavalier King Charles Spaniels in Hampstead Heath. Decided there and then to own one when we got back! Another excellent Indian meal at a recommended restaurant in St John's Wood.

Sunday: Buckingham Palace for Pomp and Circumstance, Walked to Trafalgar Square again (you can never get enough!) where our daughter lost her new treasured blue scarf while distracted by pigeons. Whitehall to Westminster Abbey and the old No11 Routemaster double-decker Bus to Dawes Road Fulham and the Salisbury Hotel. Ate at the Hot Pot at Earl's Court and then home to Hampstead Hth.

Monday: Back to Fulham Broadway and and then to Addison Gardens in Shepherd's Bush before taking the tube to Gordon Road, Ealing Broadway  A Nostalgia Trip retracing our old haunts in London. Even visited The Council Chambers of the "London Borough of Ealing where Chris reminisced over the fried cold ocean fish that used to be a feature of the staff Cafetaria

Tuesday: A cold day best spent on a Intercity 125 to Bristol -One hour and ten minutes and we were there. Went to visit the historic iron ship the "Great Britain" earlier rescued from the Falkland Islands.. The Bristol Museum followed by sausage, egg and chips which wasn't bad at all!

Wednesday dawned 2 degrees and overcast -ideal for Tower Hill and the Yeoman Warders (one of whom remarked that Jacqui's head looked as though it would  "come off easily") and then the Tower Bridge Museum where we were denied entry as we only had 45 minutes till closing time. A time for good humour, bonhomie and good natured railing and banter. Right !!!

Thursday: Zero and overcast: Tower Bridge Museum finally with steam engines and an opening for a ship. All coming together now! Time for the British Museum and Tottenham Court Road.

Friday: South Kensington Museums: Science and  Natural History. Took our hosts, Helen and Roy to dinner at the "Light of India" tandoori and a ride in a London Cab.

Saturday: Went to Stamford Brook and Chiswick to visit Sir Anthony and his wife Pat. Returned to Finchley Road and dinner at "New Delhi"

Sunday: Baker Street and then the Victoria and Albert Museum before walking Hampstead Heath and the frozen ponds.

1984-02-20 Monday: took the tube to Heathrow and left at noon for Abu Dhabi, Bangkok and arriving Hong Kong.Long tedious 17 hour flight with "Two of a kind" and "Eddie and the Cruisers"

Tuesday: arrived Hong Kong to mild overcast weather. Checked into the Grand Hotel to fall asleep in front of captivating TV.

Wednesday and breakfast at the  ."Chatterbox Coffee Shop" and then industrial-strength shopping for electrical goodies.

Thursday Metro to HongKong Island to the Hilton and take the Peak Tram (27 degrees inclination) to watch the spectacular sunset from the Peak Cafe. One of the world's really great sights. Did we have sweet'n'sour Fish Lips that night?

Friday -time to salivate over musical goodies around town. Time to take the Star Ferry and a bus to Aberdeen. Sampan ride around the Floating Restaurant. Ferry ride to see boat building before returning via minibus and the MTR to Kowloon.

Saturday: train to the Sung Dynasty Village cum Amusement Park. Tonight we prepared for our 22.30 departure from Kai Tak Airport with Cathay Pacific,

1984-02-26 Sunday Arrived KSA (Mascot) Sydney at 10.05 in warm sunny weather.
It had been a long, eventful and rewarding holiday. 57 days duration travelling with a nine year old in tow!